As you know, we bought the boat cheap.....real cheap. Boats are never cheap without a reason and "Elixir" had a LOT of reasons! This is a chronicle of the major repairs we did to get her back to her previous claim as a "Luxury" yacht. Follow us as we restore the beauty that we could see lying beneath the chipped paint, weathered wood, and rusted machinery.
The first chore I tackled was the mast and boom.
OK, maybe it wasn't the most important thing to work on, but the badly chipping paint could be seen from shore and I knew that if it rotted, it would cost a small fortune to replace. What a difference it made to have a glossy white mast!
Before |
After |
Port Side (we can't get to yet) |
Starboard Side |
Whenever the shower or the sink in the Master Head was used, the water (along with toothpaste, soap, and whatever else) would just drain into the bilge. It would eventually be picked up by the bilge pump and be pumped overboard. In the meantime, as you can imagine, the bilge was nasty and had a foul odor. The white PVC pipe on the right of the picture on the left is the drain for the shower. Marie and I installed a shower drain box which catches all of the drainage and automatically pumps it overboard thereby keeping it out of the bilge! The tubing is just temporary since when we renovate the Head, I am going to install a larger drain pipe for the shower. Now I just have to clean up all the nasty stuff on the floor of the bilge. Yuk! I think I will wait for it to dry some first!
We finally got the parts to replace the old heat exchanger and the transmission oil cooler (top picture). These are the parts that caused the transmission to freeze up. As you can see by the middle picture, the heat exchanger was in pretty bad shape. One of the bolts on the heat exchanger was oversized which means the original threads on the exchanger had corroded and then been tapped out! Then the new bolt had eventually corroded causing the exchanger to fail!
This is an important point to make for any new boaters such as myself. According to American Diesel, both the heat exchanger and the transmission oil cooler are consumable items. They have a limited life span. After a certain number of engine hours, they have to be replaced. The heat exchanger is about $600 and the cooler is about $120.
The rear hatch cover pictured on the left was leaking really bad. The plywood under the teak was badly rotted. If you look closely between the teak and the frame, you can see a gap where the plywood is supposed to be. Every time it rained, water poured into the master berth! Although the teak was sound, there was not much thickness left after years of sanding, so I decided to build a new cover from the frame up. I replace the rotted 1/2 inch plywood with 3/4 inch marine grade plywood. I then covered that with 3/4 inch African Mahogany. I also wrapped the edge of the plywood with 1 x 2 African Mahogany to protect it from water. The original design only used quarter round to protect the edge. You can't see the frame on the new cover pictured on the right because of the overhanging mahogany boards! Finally, in tribute to the original construction, I removed the teak handle from the old cover and installed it on the new one. After a few coats of varnish, the new hatch cover should keep us dry for many years to come!
They say that nothing dealing with a boat is a simple as it seems. "Elixir" lived up to this statement when it came to the whole reason we were able to purchase her in the first place - her inability to get underway. As you read in "The Gamble", we had previously discovered the problem was due to a seized transmission. This is the culprit. But that was the easy part. With no ID plate to tell us what kind of transmission, we took her to a transmission repair shop who claimed to work on Velvet Drive transmissions to tell us the model number and gear ratio. Over two months went by with constant phone calls before they finally advised us that it was a model 72 with a 2.57 gear reduction and that it could not be rebuilt.
We promptly ordered a rebuilt transmission to fill the bill and scheduled the mechanic to come install it. It dropped right in and everything went smoothly until he tried to line up the prop shaft with the tranny and they did not line up!!! That's when we discovered the transmission shop had neglected to tell us that the original transmission was a drop center transmission (with a 2.47 gear reduction ratio). We had ordered an "in line" transmission. Oooops! I immediately jumped on the phone to locate a drop center transmission only to discover that they no longer make them and they are not available in the used and rebuilt market. I finally located one in Ft. Lauderdale, but they would not give me a price until they received my core and decided how much it would cost to rebuild it. They did say it would probably be around 9 - 10 thousand!!! Ouch!!!
After many phone calls and much discussion, we decided to drop the engine to the height of the new transmission rather than pay the cost of a drop center transmission. Aside from the obvious up-front cost savings, we also realized that should a new drop center transmission break down in the future, we would once again be faced with the inability to find parts or a replacement for the transmission. So with all things considered, dropping the engine was the best route. The engine sat on two massive angle iron bars which were attached length-ways to the stringers. They would each have to be unattached, new holes drilled in the stringers, and then the bars reattached at the lower level. They would have to be dropped 2 inches and luckily we had enough clearance. Here, the mechanic raises the engine off the mounts in order to remove the angle iron bars.
Of course, even all that would have been simple, but there were more problems to come. The engine mounts were in horrible shape so it only made sense to replace them while we had the engine in the air. I ordered new mounts from American Diesel before we started the project. But once we removed the old mounts we discovered that the two rear mounts were 1/2 inch shorter than the front mounts and the new ones we had ordered. Phone calls to American Diesel determined that for some reason, someone had installed 4 cylinder mounts on the rear. We were advised these would not hold up long to the weight of our 6 cylinder. And so we had to drop the angle iron another 1/2 inch to compensate for the additional height of the new motor mounts!
But wait - there's more! The front mounts were mounted on a 2x4 spacer. I'm not sure why but I can only surmise that having the angle iron in two heights makes it stronger than one continuous length. Prior to hoisting the engine, I had already cut new 2x4's and pre-drilled the holes for the motor mounts using a new mount as a guide. But when we pulled the old 2x4's out, we discovered they were 1/4 inch thicker than current 2x4's. Huh?
Believe it or not, this difference kept the transmission from lining up with the prop shaft! So, limited with only the circular saw we had on board, we ripped a 1/2 inch piece of 2x4 to add as an additional spacer. It worked! Finally the the shafts were close enough to attach. After that, it was simply the back and forth....and back and forth....and back and forth some more of adjusting the motor mounts to perfectly line up the transmission shaft with the propeller shaft before bolting them together. OK - maybe not perfectly lined up, but within tolerance.
Finally, "Elixir" has a complete power train. The only thing left to do is hook up all the hoses and fill the fluids and we will be able to test her power!
Because the yard had to pull Elixir out at 8a.m. and it was a 3 hour cruise, we had to go over the night before. Our first night spent away from our home marina was in a boat yard! At least we were greeted by a beautiful sunrise!
The yard did a wonderful job in cleaning up the bottom. We discovered there were 4 old unused transducers hanging beneath the boat creating drag since the fairing blocks had rotted away. They removed them and patched the holes. They helped us determine where the non-existent zincs were supposed to be. Then they painted the bottom black, the old multi-colored boot stripe blue, and the main rub rail blue. What a difference! Elixir looks brand new!! Well, almost.
But the best part was we gained an extra 2 knots in speed!! Our 3 hour trip over became a 2 hour trip back!
When we bought Elixir, she had this old little 6 gallon water heater that you would buy from Home Depot. It worked originally, but I knew it would have to be replaced. It was not built to stand up to a marine environment and it had no way to be heated underway. Within the month, it died. Not only did it die, but it shorted out to the boat and until I discovered it was the cause, when you were in the engine room working, you would get shocked when you touched various pipes. Not ready to install a new one, we went for many months with no hot water on board. I finally rebuilt the decking where the heater goes and installed this new stainless steel 11 gallon marine water heater. Thanks to Sharkbite fittings and Pex pipe, I was able to hook it up in a temporary fashion as I will not be able to permanently run the pipes until I rebuild the engine room. With only days before we leave on our big trip to Captiva Island, I chose not to hook up the piping to allow us to have hot water underway as I did not want to risk messing with the engine cooling system. I will do that when we return. But at least now we have hot water when tied to the dock.
One of the things that really bothered me about the boat was this view from the back. The paint was mostly gone and it looked like a working fishing boat instead of a luxury yacht.
Unfortunately, it never seemed to get high enough on the priority list and so I avoided taking pictures from the back and cringed whenever a boat was following us. I knew what they were thinking!
Finally, while we were on our trip to Captiva Island, I took the time to slap a couple of coats of paint on her. What a difference!!!
Another major mechanical problem when we bought the boat was the generator. It was over 30 years old and did not run. We were told it was also frozen up. Shortly after we purchased Elixir, I put a wrench on the crank shaft and turned it, so I knew it was not frozen, but it would not even think about starting. Other things were more pressing and/or cheaper to fix, so the poor genny got put on the back burner. But as we used the boat more and more, it became obvious we needed a working generator. Without it, we could only stay on the hook for 2 nights. Then we had to plug in to a marina to recharge the batteries. We also had no air-conditioning, microwave, or ability to recharge our phones while underway or on the hook. And so we finally decided we had to get her running.
Ok - not everything is about restoration. Some things are just cool to do. We quickly discovered that when we are steering from the lower helm, we could not see if a boat was behind us. So if we needed to turn in a hurry, we had no way of knowing if we would be turning into another boat. The fix - a back up camera! Now we can see behind us in 17" vivid color while still at the helm! Technology can be great!
All boats have an anchor chain locker. It's a place to store the anchor chain when not in use and is located at the bow of the boat. As the anchor is pulled onboard, the chain automatically goes into the chain locker. On Elixir, the chain locker was just a piece of plywood with no drainage. As the chain was pulled onboard over the years, water saturated the plywood and it was pretty much gone. The whole area looked horrible. After removing the old plywood and grinding down the sides, I replaced the plywood. Then Marie went to work. First she primed the area with Sani Tred Permaflex. After filling the cracks and holes with Liquid Rubber Base, she added a final top coat of Permaflex. Add a couple of scuppers to drain any water that comes in with the chain and we now have a rugged water-tight chain locker!
In Progress |
Done!! |
Our old refrigerator slowly began to lose its ability to keep the food cold. At some point it became apparent we would have to swap it out. Unfortunately, when we looked for a replacement, we could not find anything that would fit without going much smaller. The admiral said this one was already too small, so going smaller was out of the question. We found a full size marine refrigerator we liked, but it would have to be relocated unless we wanted to block the view out the window, which we didn't.
We ended up with a built in dishwasher, microwave and TV! The TV folds down and slides away in the top drawer when not in use so it does not obstruct our view! Isn't that much better than a little camping size refrigerator?
The Port Side Door, which is the main door we use to board Elixir, had a cracked window and was badly weathered. We removed the glass from the door and had a new window made to fit. While the glass was removed, we sanded and varnished the door. It now has a mirror finish, both on the window and the wood and is much more inviting to visitors to the boat!
As I mentioned earlier, our old refrigerator died. We decided to replace it with a larger one, which is why we filled the space of the old one with the dishwasher. But we had to put the new one somewhere. The only logical place was in the corner by the port-side door. The original ice chest stood in our way. When I say ice chest, I don't mean freezer. This was designed to put a block of ice in it and it would keep your food cool. As the ice melted, a built in drain allowed the water to escape. When Elixir was built, this was the only way to cool food onboard. The old refrigerator we took out had been installed under what used to be a desk. We really hated to rip out this ice chest because it looked really cool. But in reality, it was not usable. It took two bags of ice a day to keep sodas cold. Its hard to find bags of ice on the hook.
So out it came. We bought an 8.2 cf Vitrifrigo marine refrigerator. It has a separate freezer and refrigerator, where before we only had a little freezer compartment, which was pretty much useless. Now instead of buying two bags of ice a day, we can make our own ice!
We built a cabinet to put the new refrigerator in. We had to put it on a base to get it up high enough to clear the step by the door. Since storage space is a premium on any boat, we made the walls on the base removable, so we can store extra food and supplies under the fridge!
The previous owner replaced the swim platform with a home-made one. Best I can tell, he took two layers of 3/4 inch plywood and coated it with a thin coat of fiberglass. It probably looked real nice when he first built it, but the first bolt that went through the fiberglass breached the water-tight integrity and rotted out the wood. The result was what you see on the left. It was so rotted out that you took your life into your hands to walk across it! We had to remove the swim ladder before it fell in and there was no way to store a dinghy on it.
Originally, we planned to have a new swim platform built and installed before our upcoming trip. But with Elixir still unable to move from the dock, we began to realize we would not have time to have her pulled onto the hard for the swim platform installation before we left. And so we abandoned the idea of having the new platform built before our trip.
And yes, it holds the dinghy very well. I can launch the dinghy in less than 15 seconds and it only takes about 60 seconds to retrieve the dinghy back into stowed position! With that kind of ease, we can dinghy to any beach anytime which should make the Admiral very happy. And you know the saying: Happy Admiral happy sailor!
One thing you learn very quickly when you get a boat is that storage space is a valuable resource. And so when I was designing the cabinet for the new refrigerator, I realized I had 4 inches of unused space. Four inches!! That's like 5 acres to you landlubbers! I started measuring things and discovered that a can of whatever is a tad over 3 inches. Perfect! I decided to build a can shelf into the refrigerator cabinet. It was just enough width for one can, but all total it holds 63 cans!
To keep the cans from falling out while underway, I devised a bar system using wooden dowels. To pull a can out, you simply lift the bar and grab the can. Let go of the bar and it automatically falls back into place about mid-way down the height of the can.
The final touch is that when the door to the Master Berth is open (which it normally is unless we have overnight guests), it acts as a door to the can shelf so you don't even see the cans! Now where's the next vacant 2 inches?
When we bought Elixir, most of the teak had been stripped of the decks leaving a rough bare looking deck. It was neither comfortable to walk on barefoot nor pretty to look at.
We researched many options on how to deal with the deck, including re-teaking it. In the end, we finally decided to go with LRB/Permaflex.
These are rubber based paints that when they harden, are as tough as a car tire. They also completely water-proof whatever you put it on and can self-level which saved us a lot of sanding!
Here, we have begun coating our decks, starting with the deck above the V-berth. We went with a tan color and I think it looks pretty good! I can't wait to get the rest of the boat done!
As I said before, space is a premium on a boat. Elixir was built with a Liquor Locker under the Helm Bench. It was hard to open (no slides) and couldn't hold much even if we were big drinkers, which we are not. So it was wasted space to us. So I gutted the insides and cut the door off. After re-walling the inside, I mounted two pull-out shelves. Finally, I installed the old door back onto the lower shelf so that when it is closed, it all looks original. But when you pull it open, it is a pantry! It actually holds quite a bit of stuff and with the ball bearing slides, its all easy to get to!
The major project for this winter was switching over the chain and cable steering to hydraulic steering. The chain and cable, although effective, was stiff and difficult to turn quickly in close quarters docking. Additionally, at least one pulley had separated from the fiberglass held mount and was replaced with the erector set contraption shown below to keep us underway. I worried that it, or another of the 7 pulleys the cable traveled through would give way at a critical moment. So out with the old and in with the new.
The first step was to rip out all the old sprockets, pulleys, cables, and chains. The cables were the easy part, but some of the bolts and set screws on the sprockets (like the one above) and pulleys were rusted tight. Eventually I got them all removed although I had to break some of the bolts to do it!
Then began the installation of the new system. If I had to do it over again (I hope not), there are things I would do differently. I had no experience with hydraulic steering so I researched and guessed a lot. Its amazing how little information is on the internet regarding the
installation of hydraulic steering systems on boats. Little things that made a big difference. For instance, I installed the mounting plates and copper pipe to the rudder before I purchased the cylinder. I did not know the connectors for the cylinder would end up pointing the wrong direction for my installation which resulted in the spider web look to the hoses seen to the right. By the way, I had to have those plates as well as the tiller arm fabricated. I didn't know metal could cost so much!
I chose the Capilano 1275 pump even though it was slightly larger than what was called for on a
boat Elixir's size because I thought the bigger size would be helpful when docking a single screw boat. I wish I had gone with the smaller 1250 pump. Not only were the fittings for 5/8" pipe hard to find, but it was very hard to work with and no one had a pipe bender to fit. The smaller 1250 pump uses 1/2" pipe which is more common and everything is readily available.
After 6 months of working almost every weekend, I finally got it all installed. The old sprocket was replaced by the pump to the left, and the shake down cruise was successful! Elixir now has hydraulic steering!
Now that we finally decided how we wanted to redo the deck, we figured we could waterproof the ladder going from the mid-deck to the flybridge with the same permaflex rubber material. That way, we would not have to keep it varnished, oiled, or otherwise and it would cut down on the maintenance of Elixir. Although it was not in horrible shape, it was wood and you could tell it had been some time since anything had been done to it.
It took several coats of permaflex to seal the ladder, but when it was finally done, it was a great improvement over the way it had been. Plus the added non-tread will make it safer for us to come and go from the flybridge while underway.
Another problem with Elixir was her electrical panels. Years of adding new wiring runs and rewiring old ones had caused havoc on the back of both the AC and DC panels. Apparently forever in a hurry, prior owners had merely run wire after wire directly from point A to point B without any regard as to what the wire was running in front of. The result was a wire locker so crammed with wires that you could neither open the breaker panel to work on it, nor access anything inside the wire locker! Here you can see the wires restricting the AC panel from opening any further.
So I took a week of vacation and disconnected every AC wire from the back of the panel. Then, one by one I re-routed them into a wire run on the back wall of the wire locker, brought them to the hinged side of the panel, and reconnected them to the breaker. Some wires were too short and had to be replaced. I installed a new terminal block to hook up all the ground wires without having to wire them to the panel. I also installed new terminal blocks to replace the old ones for all the outlets on the boat which were very rusted. Now I can open the AC breaker panel and easily work on the wiring. There is also much more room in the wire locker!
Lately I have been busy varnishing. I've been trying to get everything on the boat varnished for the first time, while not letting the wood that has already been varnished go bad. Keeping up with the old
Anyway, all this to say I haven't been posting because you've seen the varnish so I didn't want to bore you with more.
But after three years, I finally got around to that new paint job Elixir has needed from the start. My first paint project was underneath the brow. As you can see above, it really needed it. I tried a custom paint called Signature Finish. A friend told me about it. As you can see in the picture on the left, this stuff is great! It's easy to use and gives a mirror finish. It also fills in small cracks and holes to give a smoother finish than what you started with! Now I can't wait to paint the rest of the boat.
Our big concern was that if we painted the brow, it was just get discolored again. They had to be replaced! I took them to a metal shop to see if they could fabricate some out of stainless steel. Their answer was basically - NO.
Apparently, it would take a small loan from Fort Knox to even think about replicating this in stainless.
They did say they could make "L" brackets for me, but I didn't want an "L" bracket on the front of my boat.
Here you can see the green color typical of brass that is exposed to the elements.
You may notice in the picture that we have also painted the brow. We couldn't put new brackets on an old paint job!
Continuing our on-going project to refinish the deck, both to make it look better and to water-proof it, we next tackled the mid-deck. This deck is a large area towards the back of the boat that could be used as a living area except that the deck is slippery when underway. As you can see, it also looked terrible!
So we coated it with permaflex liquid rubber and added non-skid. Now the deck is safe, water-proof, and beautiful!
You may recall that the first renovation I completed after purchasing Elixir, was to repaint the mast (You can scroll up to the top to remember how bad it looked). Three years later the mast was becoming a concern. Its weight was causing the fiberglass deck on the flybridge to cave in, which in turn was causing the mounting bolts to begin to push against the ceiling in the saloon. We had already removed the boom about a year ago to alleviate some of the stress, but it was still a problem.
So we decided to replace the mast. We tore out the old wooden one and had a light-weight aluminum one fabricated for us. I designed it to be mounted on the mid-deck instead of the flybridge, with a second point of fastening on the flybridge. This two point mounting system allowed us to get rid of the three guide wires that supported the old mast.
Between moving the mast off of the flybridge and removing the guide wire that was bolted to the deck in the middle of the flybridge, it gave us a lot more space on the flybridge! Also, without the height needed to support a boom, I was able to shorten the mast by two feet, which means many more bridges that we can pass under without needing them to open! Finally, I had a hinge installed six feet below the top, which will allow us to get under the lowest bridge on the Great Loop that we hope to make someday.
One of the things I did not like aesthetically when we first bought Elixir, was the ship's bell. It was made of brass and had the characteristic patina which just made the boat look old. I tried to polish it and it looked great when I did, but within a month it was old and cruddy looking again.
So I decided to swap it out for a stainless steel bell. What a difference!
I searched the internet in vain for a vent that would fit the opening. Finally, after years of fruitless search, I gave up and had a custom made stainless steel vent fabricated to fill the space. It was not cheap. But after removing the old frame and filling in some areas with epoxy and painting the area, the new vent is in place and looks great! Since it uses an internal clamp ring, there are no external screws to allow water to seep into the interior of the wall. It also has a screen to keep the bugs out of the boat!
Speaking of having to varnish..... Marie has been helping me out in that department by making covers for some of the wood that seems to need varnishing frequently. Below you can see how nice they look! The covers have been making the varnish last much longer and I have not had to re-varnish since we put the covers on! Thanks Marie!
Our one air conditioner just could not keep up with the hot humidity of a South Georgia summer. When the temperature would reach 90 degrees outside, it would only cool the inside to about 89! After several years of sweating profusely, I called the manufacturer for advice. They stated the obvious, that I needed a second unit. I couldn't understand how a second unit would help much when one barely cooled a single degree, but I took them at their word and bought a second unit. We installed it in the master closet with ducts running to the salon, master head, and master berth. Wow!! Now Marie has to turn up the thermostats because it gets too cold, even on 90+ degree days!
Elixir had an old DC electrical panel. It was probably original to the boat. It was not very pretty to look at and some of the switches were no longer labelled properly. We just had to know what they really controlled! The meters did not work and worst of all, the panel was not mounted on a hinge. That meant every time I wanted to work on the back of it, I had to unscrew the entire panel and pull it and the maze of wires behind it, out. It was next to impossible to re-wire any of the switches. And if you let go of the panel while it was not mounted, the whole thing wanted to fall down onto the main A/C input switch mounted directly beneath it!
So the old panel had to go. In its place, I installed a new Blue Sea electrical panel. With newer technology, the meters and switches are smaller, which means I got a 22 breaker panel in a space smaller than the old 16 breaker panel! And the extra space allowed me to install it on a wood frame that is hinged for easy opening!
Now I just have to wire up all those switches!
Adding to the good looks of the panel, each label is back-lit so you can see what the switch goes to even in the dark. It also has indicator lights to let you know which breakers are on!
In addition to the odor issue, we were restricted in our travels because we had no holding tank. Even though we had a waste treatment system that was ten times better than your local municipal waste treatment system, because of uneducated politicians bending to political pressure from uneducated constituents, we are restricted from discharging that treated waste into the same waters that the much less treated waste from municipal systems is dumped. These waters are known as no-discharge zones and include the Florida Keys and parts of the ICW in North Carolina. You may recall on our cruise to Miami and north to South Carolina, these zones prevented us from going any further south and north.
We searched for an answer to both these problems and found the solution in one system; Raritan's Hold N Treat System with Purasan EX.
We chose to install the system under the master bed as seen in the picture above, in a cavity not readily accessible and not currently being used.
The waste is sent from the head to the holding tank seen in the picture to the left. When the level in the tank reaches a certain level, it is transferred to the Purasan EX on the far side where it is treated to kill all bacteria, and then discharged into the water. The Purasan allows us to use fresh water which has already stopped the odor problem! And if we are in a no-discharge zone, we can shut off the Purasan and the waste is stored in the holding tank until we are clear of the no-discharge zone! Florida Keys here we come!
would not look out of place, a great idea! We had the granite counter-top professionally installed and then we added a vessel sink which gave us more drawer space.
After 4 years, we finally had a working forward head, which will make it easier for company to come along on a cruise! (That's an invitation in case any of my family and friends missed it)
Since it is a fresh water flush and the master head is still currently a salt water flush (future project), we find we prefer to use our new head over the one in the master berth so we are getting plenty of enjoyment from the completion of this project!
When we purchased Elixir, she had one Racor fuel filter. Not only was it so gummed up that you could not see what was going on, it was not even Coast Guard approved for use in engine rooms, which of course, is where it was installed.
So we changed it out with two new proper ones. We also added pressure gauges so that we would know when the filters needed to be changed and brass drain fittings so that we could drain off the water without breaking prime on the fuel side. Each filter is supplied by a separate fuel tank and is totally switchable so that if one clogs up we just switch to the other and keep going!
So I finally got around to installing a Magnum MS2000 full sine wave inverter. Now we have electricity anywhere we go!
It also is a battery charger, so it replaced our old battery charger to charge our house bank.
The original hand rails on the boat were weak and rickety and made the boat look old. So we are replacing all of them with stainless steel tubing. The are stronger, more modern, and a lot less maintenance.
We have completed the installation on the fly bridge and are very pleased with the results!
************ Other Miscellaneous Repairs, Renovations and Upgrades:
* Replaced faulty Starter Motor
* Replaced non-functioning Engine Stop Solenoid
* Replaced exahust elbow
* Installed Garmin 740s Chart Plotters
* Replaced Jabsco manual flush toilet in Master Head
* Installed Coast Guard approved Life Ring
* Replaced all dock lines
* Replaced broken oil pressure switch
* Repaired non-functioning tachometer
* Installed Garmin 18HD Radar
* Replaced undersized fenders with proper size
* Re-routed fuel fill hose to stop fuel from backing up during fueling
* Upgraded bridge mounted fish finder to (2) Airmar Model P79 In-Hull, Adjustable Angle Transducers
* Installed Xantrex Linklite Battery Monitor
* Installed access port on flybridge side-wall to run wires from mast to inside of boat
* Replaced old 30 amp alternator with new 90 amp alternator
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